Marseille

6th arrondissement

Notre-Dame de la Garde

The basilica on the city's highest point, its gilded Virgin watching over the sea; inside, ship models and ex-votos from sailors. Climb up (or take bus 60) in the late afternoon for the 360° view over the port, the islands and the Calanques. Dress respectfully.

Evening · ~90 min

Vieux-Port

Vieux-Port

The harbour where Marseille began 2,600 years ago, forts at its mouth and Notre-Dame de la Garde above. See the fish sellers on the Quai des Belges in the morning, walk under the mirrored canopy on the quay, and cross the water on the little ferry boat for 50 cents.

Morning · ~60 min

2nd arrondissement

Le Panier

The oldest quarter, climbing from the harbour: steep lanes, stairways, washing between ochre houses, small squares and makers' shops, the Vieille Charité at the top. Get a little lost, then come down to the Major.

Morning · ~90 min

Frioul

Château d'If

The island fortress-prison of The Count of Monte Cristo, twenty minutes by boat from the Vieux-Port: cells, ramparts and the view back at the city. Boats do not run in bad weather; combine with the Frioul islands on the same ticket.

Morning · ~150 min · €7 per ticket

Luminy

Calanque de Sugiton

A narrow limestone inlet of turquoise water in the Calanques National Park, about an hour's walk down from the Luminy campus (bus terminus), steep and rocky at the end. On the park's summer dates a free reservation is compulsory, and from June to September the massif can be closed on fire-risk days: check the prefecture map the evening before.

Morning · ~240 min

Endoume

Vallon des Auffes

A tiny fishing port tucked under the arches of the Corniche viaduct: painted wooden boats (pointus), fishermen's huts and a few seafood restaurants. Go down the steps from the Corniche at the end of the day.

Late afternoon and blue hour · from The quay at the back of the cove, boats in front and the viaduct arches behind

Evening · ~45 min

Malmousque

Anse de Malmousque

Rocky coves at the tip of the Malmousque peninsula, reached by footpaths from the villa streets, where locals swim off the rocks; a taste of the Calanques ten minutes from the Vallon des Auffes.

Afternoon · ~60 min

Vieux-Port

Fort Saint-Jean

The 17th-century fort guarding the harbour entrance, now gardens and ramparts open for free as part of MuCEM. Walk in from Le Panier by the upper footbridge and out over the sea to the museum.

Evening · ~45 min

Le Panier

La Vieille Charité

A 17th-century poorhouse by Pierre Puget: three tiers of pale arcades around a courtyard with an oval-domed chapel, now home to the city's Mediterranean archaeology and African, Oceanian and Amerindian art museums, free for the permanent collections.

Afternoon · ~60 min

La Joliette

Cathédrale La Major

A huge 19th-century striped cathedral on the waterfront between Le Panier and the port, domes in green-and-white stone, marble and mosaic inside. Free; visits pause during Mass.

Afternoon · ~30 min

Rive Neuve

Abbaye Saint-Victor

A fortified abbey church above the south quay, founded in the 5th century; its crypts hold early Christian sarcophagi and the Black Virgin carried in the Candlemas procession every 2 February.

Morning · ~45 min · €3 per ticket

Longchamp

Palais Longchamp

A colonnaded water palace built in 1869 to celebrate the canal that brought the Durance to the city, a cascade and park around it; one wing holds the Fine Arts museum, free for the permanent collection.

Afternoon · ~90 min

Mazargues

Calanque de Sormiou

The largest calanque, a small beach and fishermen's huts at the bottom of a wide limestone bowl. In summer the access road is closed to cars by day, so walk down from the RTM bus stops; fire-risk closures of the massif apply from June to September.

Morning · ~240 min